How to Minimize ‘Ecological Traps’ Within Naturalistic Gardens

 

When we add local native plants to our yards and work to mimic healthy habitats, one of the wonderful consequences is the increase in wildlife we see. But no matter how well-meaning our actions are, “ecological traps” may be created when we make our yards attractive to wildlife but don’t address all the inherent dangers that can lead to reduced survival or reproduction. If human-induced hazards — such as reflective windows, introduced predators, light pollution, dirty bird feeders — kill or injure them, it’s obviously not advantageous. To minimize danger to wild fauna that unknowingly select attractive but inferior habitats in which to feed, shelter, or reproduce, we need to consider and address what we might set them up for when we purposely design ecologically-attractive landscapes, as well as embrace adaptations that allow us to protect wild ones at the same time.

It’s easy to figure out some ecological traps, such as those created by gardeners who use insecticides on plants that attract insects, or brutal traps or poisons intended to kill rodents that can also trap or harm other animals. But there are many other less obvious ways that gardeners may attract wildlife into gardens, only to ultimately harm their chances of successful reproduction or survival.

For birds, after habitat loss and degradation, free-roaming cats and window collisions are the greatest human-related causes of fatalities. In another post I’ve addressed the disastrous effect that reflective windows can have on birds. Regarding cats, certainly not all are keen hunters, but many are, so it’s up to us to take responsibility for their actions. (Dogs can also be problematic, especially in areas where sensitive wildlife live or nest on the ground, including fragile amphibians and reptiles.) Domestic cats reportedly kill billions of birds a year, in addition to reptiles, small mammals, insects and amphibians. So what’s a responsible animal lover to do? If you already have a feline who’s been spending a lot of time outdoors, it’s going to be difficult—or even cruel—to suddenly lock Kitty up and throw away the key. Cats are carnivorous predators, so it’s not their fault that they hunt, or want to. For those with unbreakable habits, consider limiting outdoor adventures during baby bird season (late spring to mid-summer) and at those times of the day when birds are actively feeding (typically early to mid-morning and late afternoons, although keep in mind that while there’s usually a lull in activity at mid-day, some smaller birds and juveniles might visit feeders then). 

The next time you adopt a new cat, make them into a “house cat” early on (especially if they’re young and have never been outdoors or just had a “taste” of it for a short time) and, if feasible, offer a place for them to get fresh air and sunshine, like a catio. (I honestly do not know what we’d do without ours!) Catios can also keep them healthier, since studies reveal that feline hyperthyroidism is caused, at least party, by the dust from flame retardants in bedding and electronic devices. If a neighbor’s cat is the problem, it might be best to not use feeders at all.

Other backyard “traps” include:
Light pollution: Outdoor lights (especially those attractive to insects, such as moths) can disrupt flight paths and lead to exhaustion or death. Please see this post for information on how to minimize insect mortality, as well as migratory bird mortality, plus other serious problems associated with unnatural and unnecessary lighting.

Using pesticides (insecticides, herbicides, fungicides,
rodenticides) that kill insects, including pollinators, or taint food for other wildlife and possibly poison them.  

Inadequate bird nest boxes or lack of protection: Nest boxes that lack proper protection from predators or are placed in exposed locations can lead to nest failure. Choosing the correct entrance hole size for the species is sometimes all that’s needed. Also, nest boxes not cleaned annually can lead to disease—it’s helpful to disassemble the box soon after the birds have fledged and clean it well; I like to then place the pieces of wood in the hot sun for a couple of days.

Poor placement of bird feeders and/or bird baths that attract predators. While providing food for birds can be beneficial, always place feeders and baths in a place that allows birds an effortless flight to a nearby tall shrub or tree, where they can escape or avoid potential predators. Placing them within a few feet of windows or at least 30 away will help prevent collisions with reflective glass.  Hanging bird baths are best in areas where carnivorous animals are seen frequently. 

Infrequent cleaning of bird feeders. Dirty, poorly maintained feeders can lead to the spread of disease.

Allowing tall grass to attract ground-nesting species and then mowing it during nesting season, which can destroy the nests and possibly nestlings. 

Drawing too much attention to a nest, such as a cup-nest (built by birds such as robins and warblers) in a shrub or tree. Give the birds plenty of space, avoid outdoor lighting and loud noise, and keep kids and companion animals away.

Hazards for ground-nesting birds. Some species, such as towhees, killdeer and some sparrows and juncos, nest on the ground or close to it, so even in the best habitat it’s natural for some nests to fail due to location and predation. If you do notice such a nest and your bird feeder is attracting crows, starlings, cats, or dogs, take it down until the birds leave the nest.

Fencing that blocks wildlife corridors and, as I wrote in the Green Corridors Begin at Home post, types of fencing that can brutally kill or ensnare wildlife (and even people), often at nighttime. Avoid metal rail fencing, any spiked fencing, and all plastic netting. When not in use, take down volleyball and soccer netting.

Flowering plants and other habitat near busy roads: While roadside habitat is not always harmful, (studies show that it depends on traffic intensity, the distance of plants to a roadway, the frequency of mowing and pesticide spraying, and the availability of alternative habitats nearby), “pollinator-conscious management practices can help roadsides become more of a boon and less of a bane.” Since we lack the data needed to understand the overall impact of roadside vegetation on pollinator populations, we need to be very cautious and focus on pollinator plantings grown in safer areas whenever possible.

Non-native plants: Some non-native plants can be attractive to wildlife but may not provide adequate nutrition or shelter, leading to an ecological trap, according to the National Wildlife Federation. This also applies to cultivars (a.k.a. “nativars”), which are cultivated varieties of native species (not natural varieties found in nature) that have been cross-bred and/or hybridized by breeders looking for certain characteristics (like plant size or flower or leaf characteristics). Studies show that while some are fine, many aren’t as attractive and useful; their pollen, nectar or fruit may be deficient in nutrients (which is especially bad for migrating birds who need quality nutrients that provide a lot of energy). And some may actually lack nectar or their flowers are so complex that pollinators can’t even use them. Studies on native cultivars in the northeast and at OSU found that the more manipulated the cultivars became, the less attractive they were to pollinators. And since the interactions between insects and plants are so complex and because we don’t have an exact list of which are adequate and which aren’t, it’s safest to minimize the use of cultivars and stick with true native species.

Native plants, believe it or not, can also be a trap when they’re placed inappropriately. Douglas Tallamy gives an example in his “How Can I Help?” book: Let’s say you have a large native oak tree, or another tree that is a host for many moth species. And let’s say the tree is in the middle of a lawn. When the tree’s volatiles (chemical perfumes) attract adult moths, they lay their eggs on the tree. Eggs hatch into caterpillars who feed and grow, and when it’s time for them to pupate, they drop to the ground and try to burrow into soil where they will overwinter as pupae. But if the ground is mowed and compacted lawn, they might not be able to burrow and will die instead.  

Leaf-blowers, for many reasons: Their powerful blasts destroy essential wildlife habitat (such as leaf cover for overwintering arthropods and amphibians), kill or injure them, stir up harmful dust and air pollutants, and remove leaves, mulch and topsoil, which can cause erosion and harm soil health. Their noise frightens animals and disrupts communication. Gas-powered blowers expel huge amounts of fine particulate matter, volatile organic compounds, and nitrogen oxides, intensifying smog and respiratory issues. 

In a proverbial nutshell, reversing biodiversity loss must involve both growing local native plants and protecting the wild ones by supplying a safe space for them … if we fail to do the latter we cannot claim to help.

 

 

© Eileen M. Stark 2026

Green Corridors Begin at Home

“Is the deer crossing the road, or is the road crossing the forest?” 

To survive, most wild fauna must be on the move—to find food, water, safe shelter and breeding sites, mates, and, for some species, to migrate. But wildlife habitat is increasingly destroyed, degraded, or fragmented into small, isolated patches—by human-made barriers such as buildings, fences, lawns, and roads—which intensify their struggle to survive.

Habitat loss is one of the main threats to wildlife. More people and development mean less natural habitat, while inaction on the climate crisis forces animals to relocate. Today, more than ever, habitat connectivity needs to be restored and wild ones’ daily and seasonal movements or migrations protected.

Habitat connectivity is defined as the degree to which the landscape helps or hinders animals’ movements, as well as other ecological processes, such as seed dispersal. Whether they’re called conservation corridors, green corridors, habitat corridors, or wildlife pathways, their purpose is identical: To provide native habitat as seamlessly as possible, so that wildlife populations may be connected instead of separated. Even in deteriorated landscapes, such corridors boost biodiversity, allow genetic exchange between populations, and may even help ease the reestablishment of populations that have been decimated, isolated, or previously extirpated.

Recognizing that every front, back and side yard—even those within urban areas—is part of an intricate ecosystem that could support a great number of species is the first step toward encouraging rich, natural diversity. When “real” or “naturescaped” yards link directly to others like them, they help mitigate some of the effects of fragmentation, a huge threat to biodiversity. In general, urban and suburban areas are highly fragmented. Wildlife corridors are essential, especially for animals with large ranges.

You might be wondering, “Aren’t large-scale habitat connectivity projects happening?” or “Isn’t my yard too small to help much?” Yes, and no: The big projects are vital and projects such as underpasses and overpasses that help wildlife cross busy roads (that kill or injure many millions of animals each year) are multiplying, thanks to recent legislation in some states, as well as the federal Wildlife Crossings Pilot Program that provides funding. But also crucial are all the little spaces that—even if they’re not in the path of pronghorn or monarch butterflies—when added up, create interconnected networks. As I wrote in my book, “To be most beneficial, gardens need to connect—to each other and to the larger world—to provide continuous passage for wildlife and allow each garden to work and blend harmoniously with others nearby. A single naturalistic garden has benefits, but when in proximity to others like it, its worth multiplies.” Studies show that “the role of corridors is crucial for enhancing biodiversity in green spaces such as domestic gardens … results clarify the effectiveness of corridors in urban landscapes and have direct implications for the ecological management of cities.”

What to do? Whether you’re an avid gardener or someone who cares about dwindling wildlife, you can take positive action to help your property, balcony, or communal green spaces act as safe stepping stones within a green corridor that supports wildlife. It’s something that we can do despite (or perhaps because of) the heinous weakening of environmental protections by certain politicians over the past few years. And, it’s effective, rewarding, and usually fairly easy if you plan ahead.

Some basic tips:
Grow a diversity of locally native plants, and be sure to remove exotic invasive plants as much as possible beforehand (incrementally if they are used by wildlife). Your yard doesn’t have to be exclusively native, but when planted appropriately, the trees and shrubs that evolved in your area are especially important for supplying food, shelter, and possibly nesting sites.

Don’t fence them out (or in). When we moved into our house, one of the first things we did outdoors was remove two gates to our backyard. They served no purpose and I wanted to make it easy for four-legged fauna to come and go. While there are situations where fencing is helpful (for a dog run, to protect a veggie garden, or to prevent a little one from wandering off), many urban and suburban back yards are separated by tall, unattractive fencing that does nothing useful except provide some privacy.

Instead of impassible fencing (that also greatly diminishes air circulation around plants and, in the case of wooden fencing, wastes trees), think living, breathing native shrubs—either in an unpruned hedgerow or more naturalistic plantings—to provide privacy. Besides being much more aesthetically pleasing, shrubs alone provide food and shelter for wildlife, shade and carbon sequestration, and contribute greatly to green corridors. Unlike fencing, shrubs provide privacy but allow small animals to pass under, through, or along, from garden to garden. If your yard is tiny and you must add a narrow barrier, consider wooden lattice fencing with large openings, upon which (noninvasive) vines could grow (but don’t do this if you live where megafauna could get caught in it).

Some types of fencing can brutally kill or ensnare wildlife (and even people), often at nighttime. Avoid metal rail fencing, any spiked fencing, and all plastic netting. When not in use, take down volleyball and soccer netting.

Rethink manicured yards. Highly pruned, overly tidy, leafless, lawn-centric yards sustain very little life and are high-maintenance. Instead, create a chemical-free native wildlife garden that is more relaxed (some might say “messy”) and has the ability to support much more life. If you’re worried about what the neighbors will say, add some signs of human intention in the front: (a) Create interesting structure by varying the heights of plants so there is a connection from tall trees to ground cover—this not only looks nice, it’s great for wildlife; (b) Choose shrubs that can grow to their full potential without crowding each other out, hiding your doors or windows, or encroaching into pathways—all of which will eventually require harsh pruning; (c) Instead of one plant here, one plant there, plan for a rhythm by growing perennials in drifts or uneven clusters, and then repeat them elsewhere in your yard (this is also highly beneficial to wildlife like pollinators who need multiple plants to feed on); (d) Consider adding step stone paths, bird baths, strategically placed half-buried rocks, sculpture, or nest boxes (if appropriate), but don’t overdo it—few “focal points” are better than many. Don’t add landscape lighting, which is deleterious to living things.

Avoid “ecological traps” and minimize danger. When we grow native plants, minimize lighting, leave the leaves, add a water source and other positive elements to our yards, one of the wonderful outcomes is the increase in wild visitors. But no matter how well-meaning our actions are, “ecological traps” may be created when we make our yards welcoming to wildlife but don’t address the human-induced hazards that lurk nearby. When we design for biodiversity we must consider not just adding habitat, but also what we might inadvertently set them up for, such as being preyed upon by cats or dogs, or injured or killed by windows or some other hazard in our yard. Of course we don’t want to eliminate windows or companion animals, so we have to embrace adaptations that allow us to keep them and protect wild ones at the same time.

In other posts I’ve addressed the disastrous effect that reflective windows have on birds as well as the consequences of light pollution. Another lethal issue is free-roaming cats. Certainly not all cats are avid hunters, but many are, and it’s up to us to take responsibility for their actions. If you already have a kitty who’s been spending a lot of time outdoors, it’s going to be difficult—or even cruel—to suddenly lock him up and throw away the key. Cats are obligate carnivores, so it’s not their fault that they hunt, or want to. For those with unbreakable habits, consider limiting outdoor adventures during baby bird season (late spring to mid-summer) and at those times of the day when birds are actively feeding (typically early morning and late afternoon), and use hanging birdbaths instead of grounded ones. The next time you adopt a new cat, keep them safely indoors but offer a place to get fresh air, like a catio. Dogs, of course, may also be problematic, especially in areas where sensitive wildlife live or nest on the ground, such as fragile amphibians and reptiles.

Minimize hardscape. Unnatural hardscape does nothing for wildlife. Every time we remove hardscape and replace it with, say, regional native plants, dead wood, a water source and other beneficial elements, we help wildlife thrive. Minimizing it in your yard also helps reduce stormwater pollution, improve water quality, and mitigate the impacts of climate chaos.

Urge urban planners and park space advocates to plant native species. Despite native plants’ benefit to ecosystems and humans, they aren’t often added. A typical city park, for example, contains large expanses of lawn and some isolated trees (often non-native). Ecosystems are much more complex and may include tall trees, smaller trees, large and small shrubs, perennials and grasses, dead wood and fallen leaves, which support a large number of species. Creating native beds surrounding single trees, or at least within designated areas, will add complex layers without eliminating picnic space.

Finally, talk with your neighbors. Imagine if everyone’s yard was connected—botanically speaking—to the one next door, preferably without fences and gates. Then imagine that these connections continue from neighborhood to neighborhood and go on for miles, finally reaching a large natural area that’s even more supportive. Some neighbors may find your ideology beyond their grasp, but others may surprise you. Some people simply may not know about the deadly hazards of development and exotic plants, and speaking with them—or at least setting an example—may help to open their eyes and hearts.

 

© 2020 Eileen M. Stark