When we add local native plants to our yards and work to mimic healthy habitats, one of the wonderful consequences is the increase in wildlife we see. But no matter how well-meaning our actions are, “ecological traps” may be created when we make our yards attractive to wildlife but don’t address all the inherent dangers that can lead to reduced survival or reproduction. If human-induced hazards — such as reflective windows, introduced predators, light pollution, dirty bird feeders — kill or injure them, it’s obviously not advantageous. To minimize danger to wild fauna that unknowingly select attractive but inferior habitats in which to feed, shelter, or reproduce, we need to consider and address what we might set them up for when we purposely design ecologically-attractive landscapes, as well as embrace adaptations that allow us to protect wild ones at the same time.

It’s easy to figure out some ecological traps, such as those created by gardeners who use insecticides on plants that attract insects, or brutal traps or poisons intended to kill rodents that can also trap or harm other animals. But there are many other less obvious ways that gardeners may attract wildlife into gardens, only to ultimately harm their chances of successful reproduction or survival.

For birds, after habitat loss and degradation, free-roaming cats and window collisions are the greatest human-related causes of fatalities. In another post I’ve addressed the disastrous effect that reflective windows can have on birds. Regarding cats, certainly not all are keen hunters, but many are, so it’s up to us to take responsibility for their actions. (Dogs can also be problematic, especially in areas where sensitive wildlife live or nest on the ground, including fragile amphibians and reptiles.) Domestic cats reportedly kill billions of birds a year, in addition to reptiles, small mammals, insects and amphibians. So what’s a responsible animal lover to do? If you already have a feline who’s been spending a lot of time outdoors, it’s going to be difficult—or even cruel—to suddenly lock Kitty up and throw away the key. Cats are carnivorous predators, so it’s not their fault that they hunt, or want to. For those with unbreakable habits, consider limiting outdoor adventures during baby bird season (late spring to mid-summer) and at those times of the day when birds are actively feeding (typically early to mid-morning and late afternoons, although keep in mind that while there’s usually a lull in activity at mid-day, some smaller birds and juveniles might visit feeders then). 

The next time you adopt a new cat, make them into a “house cat” early on (especially if they’re young and have never been outdoors or just had a “taste” of it for a short time) and, if feasible, offer a place for them to get fresh air and sunshine, like a catio. (I honestly do not know what we’d do without ours!) Catios can also keep them healthier, since studies reveal that feline hyperthyroidism is caused, at least party, by the dust from flame retardants in bedding and electronic devices. If a neighbor’s cat is the problem, it might be best to not use feeders at all.

Other backyard “traps” include:
Light pollution: Outdoor lights (especially those attractive to insects, such as moths) can disrupt flight paths and lead to exhaustion or death. Please see this post for information on how to minimize insect mortality, as well as migratory bird mortality, plus other serious problems associated with unnatural and unnecessary lighting.

Using pesticides (insecticides, herbicides, fungicides,rodenticides) that kill insects, including pollinators, or taint food for other wildlife and possibly poison them.  

Inadequate bird nest boxes or lack of protection: Nest boxes that lack proper protection from predators or are placed in exposed locations can lead to nest failure. Choosing the correct entrance hole size for the species is sometimes all that’s needed. Also, nest boxes not cleaned annually can lead to disease—it’s helpful to disassemble the box soon after the birds have fledged and clean it well; I like to then place the pieces of wood in the hot sun for a couple of days.

Poor placement of bird feeders and/or bird baths that attract predators. While providing food for birds can be beneficial, always place feeders and baths in a place that allows birds an effortless flight to a nearby tall shrub or tree, where they can escape or avoid potential predators. Placing them within a few feet of windows or at least 30 away will help prevent collisions with reflective glass.  Hanging bird baths are best in areas where carnivorous animals are seen frequently. 

Infrequent cleaning of bird feeders. Dirty, poorly maintained feeders can lead to the spread of disease.

Allowing tall grass to attract ground-nesting species and then mowing it during nesting season, which can destroy the nests and possibly nestlings. 

Drawing too much attention to a nest, such as a cup-nest (built by birds such as robins and warblers) in a shrub or tree. Give the birds plenty of space, avoid outdoor lighting and loud noise, and keep kids and companion animals away.

Hazards for ground-nesting birds. Some species, such as towhees, killdeer and some sparrows and juncos, nest on the ground or close to it, so even in the best habitat it’s natural for some nests to fail due to location and predation. If you do notice such a nest and your bird feeder is attracting crows, starlings, cats, or dogs, take it down until the birds leave the nest.

Fencing that blocks wildlife corridors and, as I wrote in the Green Corridors Begin at Home post, types of fencing that can brutally kill or ensnare wildlife (and even people), often at nighttime. Avoid metal rail fencing, any spiked fencing, and all plastic netting. When not in use, take down volleyball and soccer netting.

Flowering plants and other habitat near busy roads: While roadside habitat is not always harmful, (studies show that it depends on traffic intensity, the distance of plants to a roadway, the frequency of mowing and pesticide spraying, and the availability of alternative habitats nearby), “pollinator-conscious management practices can help roadsides become more of a boon and less of a bane.” Since we lack the data needed to understand the overall impact of roadside vegetation on pollinator populations, we need to be very cautious and focus on pollinator plantings grown in safer areas whenever possible.

Non-native plants: Some non-native plants can be attractive to wildlife but may not provide adequate nutrition or shelter, leading to an ecological trap, according to the National Wildlife Federation. This also applies to cultivars (a.k.a. “nativars”), which are cultivated varieties of native species (not natural varieties found in nature) that have been cross-bred and/or hybridized by breeders looking for certain characteristics (like plant size or flower or leaf characteristics). Studies show that while some are fine, many aren’t as attractive and useful; their pollen, nectar or fruit may be deficient in nutrients (which is especially bad for migrating birds who need quality nutrients that provide a lot of energy). And some may actually lack nectar or their flowers are so complex that pollinators can’t even use them. Studies on native cultivars in the northeast and at OSU found that the more manipulated the cultivars became, the less attractive they were to pollinators. And since the interactions between insects and plants are so complex and because we don’t have an exact list of which are adequate and which aren’t, it’s safest to minimize the use of cultivars and stick with true native species.

Native plants, believe it or not, can also be a trap when they’re placed inappropriately. Douglas Tallamy gives an example in his “How Can I Help?” book: Let’s say you have a large native oak tree, or another tree that is a host for many moth species. And let’s say the tree is in the middle of a lawn. When the tree’s volatiles (chemical perfumes) attract adult moths, they lay their eggs on the tree. Eggs hatch into caterpillars who feed and grow, and when it’s time for them to pupate, they drop to the ground and try to burrow into soil where they will overwinter as pupae. But if the ground is mowed and compacted lawn, they might not be able to burrow and will die instead.  

Leaf-blowers, for many reasons: Their powerful blasts destroy essential wildlife habitat (such as leaf cover for overwintering arthropods and amphibians), kill or injure them, stir up harmful dust and air pollutants, and remove leaves, mulch and topsoil, which can cause erosion and harm soil health. Their noise frightens animals and disrupts communication. Gas-powered blowers expel huge amounts of fine particulate matter, volatile organic compounds, and nitrogen oxides, intensifying smog and respiratory issues. 

In a proverbial nutshell, reversing biodiversity loss must involve both growing local native plants and protecting the wild ones by supplying a safe space for them … if we fail to do the latter we cannot claim to help.

 

 

© Eileen M. Stark 2026